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Don't Cry For Me...
April 03, 2009

Damn, it's hard to come up with original titles. For this trip we would be going further than we ever had before. By the time we made it down to El Calafate in Southern Argentina, we would be 11,900 km from home. Just for reference, I noted that Sydney, Australia was 13,200km from home. So, while not *quite* as far as Australia, it's still a long way down.

So why Argentina? We debated between Argentina and Chile, and Argentina won. Buenos Aires looked nicer than Santiago, and there seemed to be more variety of things to see/do in Argentina. Also, Argentina was allegedly a lot cheaper, although perhaps not as much as it used to be.

Overall, it was my greatest travel experience to date. The natural wonders we saw were jaw dropping, the Argentinian people were amazing, the food was cheap (and delicious), and the country was so safe, I'd send my own grandmother backpacking to it on her own.

Abril Trois

- After meticulously packing, and double checking twice to make sure I had everything, I ended up wearing/bringing my large Canadian winter jacket to the airport with me. Arggh. Not likely to need it in Argentina.

- Going through airport security, the young security agent rifled through my bag, standard procedure. She pulled an archaic, strange looking object out of my bag. "What's this?" she inquired, with a puzzled look on her face. I recognized the object to be my trusty compass, the giveaway was the N S E W markings, and the magnetized needle. "Uh...my..compass," I replied, slowly, to make sure she understood. "Ah!" the agent replied, "no GPS?" *sigh*

- Flew to Salt Lake City. No time for the Red Iguana unfortunately. From SLC, we were off to Atlanta. Next stop, Buenos Aires!

Abril Quatro

- Landed at EZE. Couldn't get any money for a while, took us a few tries at a few different ATMs to figure out which of our bank cards were going to work, and how much we were going to be able to take out. (Argentina has restrictions on how much you can take out of an ATM at one time, usually about $100 USD. Sometimes you need to stand there and use the machine 4 times in a row if you have a big bill to pay)

- Took the Manuel Tienda Leon shuttle to Jorge Newberry (AEP).

- Checked in to our flight and walked along the ocean front. Found a restaurant called Happenings, and had some good gnocchi and chicken.

- Walked back to AEP, and caught our Aerolineas flight to Trelew (REL). Received our luggage in record time (tiny airport), and rented a car from Budget. We spoke no Spanish, the Budget agent spoke no English, but we've rented cars so many times it was pretty easy to get by with gestures, and it all went smoothly.

- Checked into Hostel el Agora. Our room wasn't quite ready, as it had "just been fumigated" the night before (always nice to hear). We never did find out what it was fumigated for.

- Bought some groceries at the Argentinian version of Walmart, with longer lineups than centre st Safeway!

- Had dinner at the big grocery store cafeteria, including a bottle of wine, for $15. In the background, children played on bumper cars in the arcade. Outside, the local youths played football in the parking lot.

- Attempted to meet up with my old roommate Alex, who coincidentally was right next door over in Uruguay, but it did not work out.

Abril Cinco

- Had some mini-muffins and tea (mate) for breakfast. Argentinians don't do breakfast.

- Hit the road, tried to find the black and white dolphins (or at least the tour company), but failed. Headed south to Punta Tombo. Discovered that my compass doesn't seem to work well in the southern hemisphere. Maybe the girl at the airport was right, should have brought GPS.

- Arrived at Punta Tombo, and discovered what Patagonian wind is really all about. Essentially, we looked like those poor reporters that get sent down to Florida to cover whatever hurricane is hitting them this week.

- Walked up the paths, stopping to photograph the 500,000 penguins or so that live in the colony. We arrived literally just in time, as the penguins start to migrate north in late March / early April. By Easter, they're usually gone. I saw an Armadillo, Chris didn't.

- More wind. Hard to walk. Strong headwind on the way back. Rocks in my face.

- Drove to Camarones, and it was windy (as in strong winds, not windy roads) the entire way. And of course, when we arrived, still windy. Checked into the municipal campground. No worries about getting a campsite here, we were the only ones there. We decided that we would likely sleep in the car, as the wind was just too fierce.

- Went for dinner at one of the few restaurants in town (Camarones is *tiny*). More pollo for me, Salmon for Chris. As for dessert, we had the Argentinian specialty, flan con crema y dulce de leche. I also had bombon suizo. Here at home we call it a Dairy Queen treat.

- Left restaurant, still windy. Went back and slept in our car. Too windy to set up the tent.

Abril Seis

- Woke up early. I tossed and turned all night, couldn't get my 6'2 frame to be comfortable in the compact car. This kept Chris up, so neither of us slept well.

- Headed to Cabos Dos Bahias for more penguin action. The penguins were more active and more vocal today. Maybe because it was less windy, maybe because it was early morning.

- Enjoyed it more than Punta Tombo, we were the only ones there, and you really felt like you were up close with the penguins.

- Forgot to pay at the entrance to the park, which made the park ranger spitting mad, but he eventually warmed up to us. Silly tourists.

- Drove back to Camarones, spotted various guanacos and a few rheas (hard to photograph).

- Stopped at Casa Rabal, which our guide book said was the 'funnest store in Patagonia'. It wasn't as exciting as the guidebook made it out to be.

- Headed back towards Trelew, and stopped in Puerto Rawson, to look for cephalorhynchus commersonii, otherwise known as the black and white dolphins. There's only 2 places in the world that they're found. We found a tour operator, Puerto Toninas that offered trips, but they said they were going to cancel today's trip, because 7 people was their minimum (break-even point), and Chris and I were the 5th/6th passengers.

We left, disappointed, but then realized, wait a minute, we'll just pay for the '7th passenger'. It was only another $30, and I mean really, how often are we going to get a chance to see these rare animals ? We paid for the 7th imaginary passenger (the girl was surprised, apparently we were the first to ever do this), and the search was on!

- For a long time it seemed like we were out of luck, but just as most of us on the boat had given up hope, we found them! They enjoyed swimming up along the boat, occasionally jumping out of the ocean. It was pretty incredible, and we had all sorts of room to move around and watch from either side, as the boat was designed for 30 or 40 people, not 7 (including the imaginary passenger).

girl chris

- Went to the grocery store to pick up some snacks. And just when we were getting ready to head to the campground - it started raining. We weren't having much luck with camping on this trip. We decided to abandon that plan and headed back to Trelew to the same recently fumigated hostel that we stayed at the first night. This time we didn't have our own private room, had to share it with 2 guys. As soon as I saw them, I knew it was trouble.. and sure enough, another sleepless night listening to loud snoring.

- But to backtrack a little, after we checked in we headed out for dinner and stopped at the bank machine on the way. I stuck my card in, entered my pin, and just as I was going to enter in the amount to withdraw, the machine completely froze with my card still inside it!

- Chris headed back to the hotel to phone the bank, and I waited there in case it started working again. After watching a countless number of people attempt to force their card in the machine, and hit all the buttons on it, trying to get it to work so they could use it, Chris finally returned, reporting that I'd have to cancel the card. So it looks like Chris will be funding the rest of our trip!

- After that whole ordeal we went out for a pizza dinner at La Bodeguita. Good pizza, and good value, approximately $20 CDN including a bottle of wine!

Abril Siete

- Caught a nice 2 hr Aerolineas flight from Trelew to El Calafate.

- Upon arrival we wandered the town looking for the best campground. After lugging our bags halfway around the town, we decided once again to abandon our plan of camping and checked into Hospedaje Alejandra. A nice little room for about $28 CDN/night. Note to anyone coming to Argentina, leave your tent at home, camping isn't worth it. :)

- Went for a walk around town to find somewhere to get some lunch. Chris made friends with one of the many stray dogs around town (they have their own little society). The dog followed us all around, and would even wait for us outside while we went into a store/shop. Part way through the walk, the dog decided it wanted to play, and started jumping all over Chris, biting at his pants, shoes, and brand new jacket. We had to duck into a store and pretend to be shopping until the dog finally left me alone.

- We stopped in at Don Luis bakery to pick up some breakfast and lunch for the next day. After leaving, guess who was waiting for us? Our new friend, the stray dog. The 3 of us walked around town some more.

- Ended up eating pizza at Pizzería La Lechuza. It was a little heavy on the spinach!

- We went and booked the Big Ice Tour with Hielos y Aventura for the next day.

- Had dinner that night at El Puesto. Very good meal! Chris had a chicken pastry appetizer + ravioli w/ roquefort cheese sauce. I had a caprese salad + shrimps in a pastry cone w/ butter sauce.

Abril Oucho

- Woke up early for our Big Ice Trek and boarded the shuttle bus to Los Glaciares National Park.

- Our first stop was at the viewpoint of the face of the Perito Moreno glacier. After snapping some pics there we got back on the bus to take us down to Lago Argentina, where we boarded a boat to take us to the other side of the lake.

- Passing by the glacier, we landed on the west side of the glacier to begin our hike, through the forest alongside the glacier.

- Next we attached our crampons to our feet and began our journey on top of the glacier. We learned the proper way to walk up and down small hills of ice.

- For 3-4 hours we hiked on the glacier, next to pools of glacial water, bottomless caverns, and crevasses. Everything was very bright, with shades of deep clean blue.

- We stopped for lunch, a picnic with an endless view of the 35km glaciar. It really felt like you were on another planet, the landscape (glacierscape?) was just surreal.

- Tired, we hiked our way back to the boat, and crossed Lago Argentina once more. We were treated to some whiskey and a large chunk of glacier ice. We admired the view of the impressive scenery for one last time.

- I napped all the way back to El Calafate, and had a further siesta upon arrival. A tiring day for sure.

- Went to the ATM, yet again. Damn Argentina and their withdrawal limits!

- Bought our bus ticket for El Chalten, and went out for dinner. We chose the same restaurant as the night before, El Puesto, because it was so good. This time we shared an entree, ravioli (again) but in a Rosa sauce. Same appetizers again, a tomato and cheese caprese salad, and some sort of chicken thing. By now we were getting a little tired of wine, but that didn't stop us from ordering another bottle (Malbec). For dessert we tried the Calafate-berry ice cream.

Abril Nuevo

- Slept in, our legs still weary from the previous day. Checked out of our hospedaje, and went for breakfast at Don Luis. We tried two Argentinian specialites, mate (tea), and a submarino (steamed milk with chocolate).

- Boarded the bus and headed for El Chalten.

- Wandered around El Chalten, looking for a place to stay. We said "no gracias" to the first place (120 pesos) after viewing the room (looked more like a trick pad).

- The second place was full, so we tried our third option, La Base. Cabin style, with nice rooms, clean bathrooms, it would be our home for the next 4 nights at 160 pesos/night.

- Walked around El Chalten, bought some grociers to cook our pasta meal for that night. That night we also met our new friend, the hotel cat, who loved hanging out in our room, our bed, and helping us cook dinner.

- Went to bed early, big hike the next day. The Patagonian wind howled throughout the night, bringing rainstorms with it. Our hike looked to be in jeopardy.

Abril Diez

- Woke up early, saw the pouring rain, and promptly went back to bed. By 10 AM it had cleared, and we set off on our hike to Laguna Torre. The hike was 11km each way, with occasional views of Cerro Torre, Egger, and Standhart, the 3 big spires overlooking El Chalten.

- Along the way we encountered a submerged bridge, now well below the water level of the river, thanks to all the rain. This created a backlog of hikers, all wondering what to do. Finally, some brave soul went first, showing the rest of us we wouldn't necessarily get swept away. Removing our socks and shoes, we crossed the freezing, glacial fed river. Reaching the other side, I couldn't feel my feet anymore.

- The rest of the hike went smoothly, and in about 3 hours we reached our destination, Laguna Torre, in front of Cerro Torre. There were a few icebergs in the water, but it was so windy in this open area, it made the scenery hard to appreciate for long.

- On the way back we ate our lunch and admired the views some more.

- For dinner, we cooked our own meal again. This time an instant pasta with a strange flavor. The hotel cat, Chalten was what I would come to call him (original), helped out yet again.

- After dinner, Eduardo, the hotel owner told us to look at the sky. A full moon was illuminating Cerro Fitzroy making it faintly visible in the dark, starry sky. "Very strange" he said.

Abril Once

- Woke up ready to start our 24km ascent to the top of Pliegue del Tombado. It was slightly cloudy but we had hopes the skies would clear as they did the previous day.

- We stopped in at the ranger/info centre as we were warned by the ranger when we first arrived that we needed specific directions for this trail, and that there was snow cover, and it wasn't clearly marked. However, the only instructions we were given on this day were "it starts there" (points out window). "Follow the yellow markets". Seemed simple enough.

- We began our ascent, apparently it was 1000m in total elevation gain, as the first rain drops started to fall.

- We had hopes that the skies would clear as there was a bit of sun still, but when we reached the first of 3 viewpoints, it was still cloudy and we couldn't see any of the torres

- We decided to wait it out, still hoping for clear skies, but 2 hours later, freezing cold and still no sign of it clearing up, we headed back down. All that work for nothing!

- Back in our room, Chris had a siesta again. Then the rain and wind really started hitting hard.

- Chris made his way (bravely) to the grocery store, through the downpour, howling windws, and flooded streets, to pick up some groceries for dinner.

Abril Doses

- 2nd attempt at Pliegue del Tombado.

- Still weary from our first attempt, we began our ascent in clear weather at 9 AM.

- By 11 we recahed our previous 'base camp' but this time, although a few clouds had started to roll in, it was still much clearer than the day before.

- After reaching the first look out point, we decided to keep pressing on and attempt the summit.

- We made our way up through the skree, over a small range of rocks, through some snow, and made it to the top!

- Wonderful panoramic views of Fitzroy, Solo, Laguna Torre, Laguna Capri. Unfortunately the clouds had moved in blocking the view of Torre. They don't call it El Chalten for nothing (translated from Tehuelche, it means 'smoking mountain')

- We took some pictures in the bitter, cold wind. Tried to eat lunch (too cold), then made our way back down the mountain.

- Made our way back to our room, to hang out with Chalten (her real name turned out to be Mi-mi), and for Chris to have another siesta.

- We decided to eat out for dinner as a reward for our grueling hike, and we went to a pub named La Cerveceria

- Took us a while to order, as we weren't sure how to say 'excuse me' in Spanish. But finally we tracked down a waitress and ordered some empanadas, cream of squash soup, spinach ravioli stuffed with squash in a 4 cheese sauce, with some Warsteiner to wash it down. (They brew their own beer, but unfortunately were all out!). The food was delicious though.

- So tired from our hike we went straight to bed and Mi-mi joined us for the night, sleeping at the foot of our bed!

Abril Treis

- Woke up bright and early to fit in one last hike. I discovered that I had a terrible rash on my arms and legs. Wasn't sure who to blame, but suspected our recently fumigated hostel. Also figured it could have been the stray dogs.

- We hit the road before sunrise to walk up to a viewpoint on the Lago de los Tres trail and to go to Laguna Capri.

- We saw some great views of Fitz Roy before anyone else was on the trail, and then made the 20 minute walk to the lake.

- Came back to our room, said goodbye to Mi-mi, Eduardo, and his daughter Valkyrie, and went to catch the bus back to El Calafate.

The bus wasn't there, but luckily a girl who spoke English explained to us that we would be catching it down the road instead.

- Arrived at the El Calafate airport (FTE) and discovered that our flight to Iguazu (IGR) was now landing at EZE, and departing from AEP (a different Buenos Aires airport), instead of arriving/departing from the same airport (Aerolineas does this fairly often, we weren't exactly shocked).

Abril Quatorze

- Landed at EZE around 1:30 AM. We didn't have to be at AEP until 5 or 6 AM, and decided to hang out at EZE (we weren't even sure if the other airport would be open). I ate at McDonalds, a feat I try to accomplish in every country I visit.

- Took a harrowing taxi ride at 4 AM to AEP (it's always a good sign when the taxi driver opens his windows and sticks his head out to wake himself up). Checked in and slept in the departure area.

- Landed at Iguazu (IGR). Wow, what a difference in temperature, humidity, and landscape from southern Argentina! We had gone from a windy, arid, mountainous, to humid & tropical.

- Headed to Riotropic, just outside of Puerto Iguazu. Very nice place, pool, cabana style rooms, again, very tropical.

- Had a long nap, weary from our overnight travels. Woke up, and discovered my rash had spread to more of my body. Fairly itchy now.

- Took a cab ride into Puerto Iguazu, and visited Las Tres Fronteras (the Triple Frontier), where Paraguay, Argentina, and Brazil all meet.

- Went for dinner at El Quincho. Had beef, chicken, the local river fish (Scuribbe?) and an ice cream sundae. My juguso beef was very good. Average restaurant overall, definitely large quantities, a live band played some Argentinian tourist music ('Don't Cry For Me' being one of the songs).

- Went home and tried to slep, but the endless cacophony of dogs barking in this rural setting (literally non-stop for hours on end) kept us awake. Occasionally it sounded like one had been shot, hopefully just a warning. Finally became wise enough to turn on the A/C to drown them out.

Abril Quince

- Had breakfast at the hotel, and headed towards the main road to try and catch a bus to Iguazu Falls. A taxi stopped and offered to drive us for 20 pesos, an offer we couldn't refuse.

- Got to the park early, beating the crowds. Walked around circuito inferior, marvelling at all the waterfalls. Then we took a boat road to Isla San Martin, more more waterfall action. Very hot day. Very.

- Stopped for lunch along the path with a nice view of, you guessed it, more waterfalls. After lunch we did the circuit superior. Noticed the crowds starting to increase. Tour buses arriving now. More waterfalls.

- Took the train to Gargantua del Diablo (the Devil's Throat), saving the best for last. Incredible!

- Took a crowded bus back, weary and sun drenched, and all waterfalled out. Had a siesta, as per usual. Woke up, played cards in the tropical garden, ordered pizza. The phone system was down (happens a lot), so our hotel manager drove in to get the pizza, but appeared to have car trouble. One of the pizzas that we ordered was the local specialty, palmito, it was really good. I also learned that my precious Pittsburgh Penguins just won their 1st game of the NHL playoffs!

Abril Diez y Seis

- Decided to attempt going to the Brazilian side of Iguazu Falls. Walked to the bus stop, and while we were waiting, a "cab" offered to take us into town again. I use the term cab loosely, because this guy looked about as far from officially being a cab as you could get.

- Initially our plan was to bus it over the border, but we then decided it would be easier to just get our new cab driver to take us to the falls, after some discussion (he didn't speak any English, and our Spanish is pathetic at best). Finally though, we were able to work out the fare details.

- Going across w/o visas wasn't a problem.

- We got to the falls barely ahead of some of the tour groups, and took a shuttle bus to the view point. Were able to get a few good pics before the crowds came. We then took an elevator up to a higher viewpoint, and then caught the bus back to the exit (and saw a coati steal a ladies lunch).

- We both liked the Argentinian side btter. More to see, plus you could get closer to the falls. Our 'cabbie', took us to Parque Das Aves, and he also joined us there for the visit. He seemed to really enjoy it, snapping pictures with his cell phone, probably one of those things you just never do as a local.

girl chris

- Chris thought it was fantastic because there were lots of toucans, and he got to hold a parrot. Lots of interesting and rare birds, Chris learned that toucans make loud, weird noises!

- Come back to our hotel for a siesta and played some cards. Met a guy named Daryl from Minnesota and had some Brahma.

- Took a taxi into town and stopped at the supermercato to pick up some vinegar for Chris's rash/fleas/bed bugs.

- Went to dinner off the tourist track at an Italian restaurant, Yuca Resto Bar. Had some homemade pasta, bottle of wine and dessert for about $20 CDN, my kind of place!

- Went home to apply vinegar to the rash.

Abril Diez y Siete

- Woke up and headed to the airport for our flight back to Buenos Aires.

- Landed at AEP and took a cab to what we though was close to our accomodation, the Yira Yira guesthouse. However, we did not have the exact address, and Google maps was a bit off! After checking the address at an internet cafe, we walked with our bags through the streets of Buenos Aires (a good 15 blocks! Not easy with a giant duffle bag) to Yira Yira.

- After checking in, we headed out to the explore the city. Our first stop was for lunch at El Cuartito, a very busy pizza restaurant. We ate at the counter, once we figured out the ordering system, very good pizza, the best on the entire trip.

- Next we stopped at Volta, for some ice cream. It was delicious and lived up to the hype. You were allowed to pick two flavors. Chris went for white chocolate with meringues and strawberries, I picked Volta chocolate with blueberry and chocolate tartufos.

- We continued in the direction of a tack shop I wanted to go to. On the way we passed shops, the university, a giant flower sculpture, Plaza Holanda (the Buenos Aires version of Central Park), then some more walking to Caballos Argentina (tack shop).

- The tack shop wasn't as good as I thought it would be, so we walked a little further to Casa Walton, where I bought a bridle for Jasmine.

- We walked back to the racetrack, where we watched a couple races. There was quite a bit of excitement over the result of one of the races. Not many women there.

- We then walked even more to the Palermo district, where we had dinner at Bio, a vegetarian restaurant. I had a good goat cheese appetizer, but our main courses weren't as good.

- Ordered frozen drinks but the blender must have been broken, because they weren't so frozen!

- After dinner we made the long walk home from Palermo district, along Ave Santa Fe. We did a *lot* of walking this first day in Buenos Aires, we estimate at least 15km. Buenos Aires, a city of 12 million, really needs to consider operating their subway past 11pm, at least on weekends!

Abril Diez y Oucho

- Woke up, had the usual Argentinian breakfast, bread with dulce de leche (caramel), and tea.

- I tried to buy scalped tickets to the most anticipated futbol game on the Argentinian calendar, Boca vs. River at La Bombonera no less. Our hostess thought I was crazy to pay 10X the face value, but it still only amounted to approximately $150 USD, certainly not outrageous by North American sporting event standards.

- Headed for La Casa de las Botas (back in Palermo), a custom equestrian boot maker. Chris had herself fitted for a pair of black, tall riding boots. We had to make quite a few ATM withdrawals to pay for those! (400 pesos at a time).

- Went for lunch at Mark's Deli, this time the frozen drinks were actually frozen.

- After lunch we wandered around Palermo, which has a variety of trendy stores and shops. Then we headed towards Murillo St, where locals go to buy quality leather at non-tourist prices. Unfortunately, being Saturday, not much was open, and it was kind of a disappointment.

- Took the subte (open during the day) to Plaza de Mayo. In this historic area we checked out Casa Rosada the President's (her!) office, and where Evita Peron rallied the working class from the balcony. We joined a Spanish speaking tour, and didn't learn much, but toured the grandiose, palatial rooms.

- Went to Florida St, otherwise known as the street of junky crafts, even by tourist standards.

- Bought some purses at Prune, gifts for the Moms.

- Headed back home. Discovered that Boca v River was at 15:00, and not 13:00 as I had thought. Our flight was leaving at 20:30, which meant being at the airport by 18:30, which meant being back at the hotel by 17:30, which meant being out of La Bombonera by 17:00. The game wouldn't be over until at least 16:$5, and we'd read that it could be a nightmare to get out of La Bombonera after a game. Suddenly paying 10X face value and risking missing our flight home didn't seem so attractive.

- Made our way back to Palermo, on the subte, and had dinner at La Cabrera. Waiting in line, we were served wine and appetizers. We were seated outside, and we ordered the grilled provoleto and the chicken with smoked cheese. The provoleto was delicious, and I think it helped me discover the secret to Atlas Pizza's cheese.

The chicken came with no less than 13 side dishes, I kid you not, including mashed potatoes, squash, mushrooms, roasted garlic. And to top it all off, the chicken dish itself was *huge*. If ever go to this restaurant, do not, I repeat, do not order more than one main dish between two people. We finished dinner feeling more stuffed than any human deserves to be.

- That being said, we tested the limits of gluttony and moved inside to finish our wine and ordered dessert. I think the only reason we were able to eat the banana flambe was because we were at La Cabreera for over 3 hours, or just an average dinner length in Argentina!

- After dinner we went to a milongue which is where locals go to dance the tangos. A variety of ages come to milongues, and a live band plays tango music. We stayed as long as we could, but being North Americans, 3 AM is about our limit, and could not stay up until dawn with the Argentinians.

Abril Diez y Nueves

- Woke up and headed to San Telmo. Every Sunday they have a street fair full of tourist junk, and all the usual suspects were there: the frozen statue guy, the cheesy tango dancers, some guy selling a slime ball toy that imitated eggs or tomatos.

- We found one nice store, Materia Urbana, which had a lot of really cool products with artistic design.

- Then we walked to La Boca, around the Bombonera stadium, where fans were already pouring in for the Super Clasico.

- Not being able to attend, we decided to watch the game in a restaurant in Boca called Undici. The restaurant became quite crowded, but we had a table, and ordered some more provolone pizza. Unforuntately we didn't see any goals and had to leave at half time. The game would go on to finish at a 1-1 draw. The start of the game was hilarious, with fireworks and paper being strewn all over the field. I thought surely they would clean it up before the match started, but nope, the players just had to deal with it.

- Off to the EZE airport, which was a gong show, with no kind of crowd control or line system. After waiting in line for over 2 hours we finally made it into security screening and made it to your gate without a minute to spare!

Our restaurant guide

- Bored at the airport we decided to rate the restaurants, both on quality and value. Here is the spreadsheet.